More specifically, the Times’ Eric Asimov on five Slovenian whites from Kabaj, Movia, Marof, Traviata, and Črnko.
Eastern Europe is home to an ancient wine culture, though it’s not always obvious from the wines today. Just as Prohibition largely severed the modern American industry from its nascent origins, Communism separated countries from centuries of winemaking traditions. The post-Communist rejuvenation of these traditions, and their adaptation to the modern world, are among the most exciting stories in wine today.
Some of these countries, like Georgia in the Caucasus, were cradles of winemaking history, and though they are less well-known and understood, they are nonetheless beginning to make new marks. Benefiting from international investment, Hungarian wines, both sweet and dry, thrill once again. Croatia, too, is beginning to establish a global presence with its dry wines. But perhaps none of the former Communist countries have come quite so far as Slovenia in redeveloping a vibrant wine culture.
He was especially impressed with Kabaj’s Amfora 2006, an “orange wine” styled blend of ribolla gialla (Rebula in Slovenia), tocai friulano and malvasia.
Ten reviews in all. Read them here.