It’s the kind of made-for-SEO headline I generally hate, but writer Alex Halberstadt also manages to make a pretty good argument in this piece for Travel & Leisure that focuses largely on Ljubljana but begins with a visit to Jean-Michel Morel and the Kabaj Winery and with Ales Kristancic and Movia.
All around were vineyards and hills. We were 15 miles from the Adriatic, but could have been half a continent away. Morel poured us his Rebula, an orange-hued white that smelled, improbably, of roses and tea. He ages the wine the way ancient Romans did: in clay amphorae lined with beeswax and buried in the ground. “Most orange wines are mistakes,” Morel said bluntly. His was not: I found it more delicate and fun to drink than most I’d had. Garrett and I hurried through dessert—tiny winter pears boiled in wine with a chestnut mousse—and thanked the Morels, because we had an appointment just beyond the neighboring hill.
Our rendezvous was with Aleš Kristančič, the most prominent figure on the country’s food and wine scene. After the fall of Yugoslavia, he decided to focus on making idiosyncratic wines based on local grape varieties rather than imitate the Italians and the French. Soon he was being discussed around restaurant tables around the world. He seemed to have influenced nearly every winemaker and chef we met.
My favorite line?
From artist Miran Mohar, on how to best put up with the charms of Ljubljana.
The key to living happily in Ljubljana, Mohar suggested, was not living there all the time. “When you’re based in a small city,” he said, “it’s good to spend a lot of time traveling.”
An excellent piece that mentions bear jowl. Sous vide, of course.