Notebooks from a trampfest. Travel tips, tales and images, online since 2006.

45 Minutes at the Gdansk Shipyard

Along the Dead Vistula to the Baltic Sea

These were taken during a 60-minute cruise up the Martwa Wisla, or Dead Vistula River, to the Baltic Sea through the Gdansk Shipyard, where Soviet-style Communism died in 1980.

That fall wasn’t immediate and took nearly a decade, but the christening of the Solidarity Trade Union in September of that year after a strike by 17,000 workers forced the Polish government to give in to strikers’ demands and legalize the union, signaled the beginning of the authoritarian system’s end. Today much of what was then known as the Lenin Ship Yard lays rotting, abandoned derelict buildings and heaps of rusting metal.

Surviving a boom and bust cycle since Prussia built the first ship-building facility there in the late 1840s, the area’s shipyards employed more than 20,000 people at its post-World War II peak, by far the region’s largest employer. Today it employs just ten percent of that as it continues to struggle to keep pace with changes in the industry. About 70 companies currently operate on the grounds.

A similar fate fell upon Solidarity in the post-Communist era. The strongest political movement in the early 1990s, Lech Walesa, Solidarity’s first leader who won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1983, became Poland’s first president in the new era, serving from 1990 to 1995, when he lost to Aleksander Kwasniewski, a former Communist. Walesa ran again in 2000, polling just 1.01 percent, the final nail in the proverbial coffin for Solidarity-as-political party.

Plans are afoot to rejuvenate the area with the creation of a Young Town section, a residential, business, cultural and entertainment complex. That’s still a long haul away. In the meantime, local told me, a cultural scene is beginning to develop, with small club, restaurants and modest galleries beginning to take root. 

What was I doing on the Dead Vistula? I was on the waterway to Hel.

Fourteen images below.

 

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  1. gardeninacity says

    Interesting images. Though it’s hard to feel triumphant about the fall of Soviet Communism when you look at what has replaced it, both in Poland and in Russia.

    1. Bob R says

      I don’t think anyone misses the authoritarian aspects of the old system. But I never fully bought into the triumphant “we won, they lost” narrative that was being spun in the west, as if the only option they had was to go full bore into an economic system that was the complete opposite of what had existed. That, as you suggest, has had, and continues to have, harsh consequences.

      1. gardeninacity says

        What they have now is also pretty authoritarian, although to different degrees. With all its deep flaws, the Soviet Union had a restraining influence on the capitalist elite. These days they feel little pressure to make capitalism more humane.

  2. margaret21 says

    We took a similar boat trip recently. Great images. Our other abiding memory of Gdansk is of the pretty new WWII museum there. Well worth a visit, though the times it recounts are not easy to witness.

    1. Bob R says

      Gdansk has an amazing history; today’s is just another iteration. I missed the WWII museum but did make it to a few art museums and galleries, the Gunther Grass Museum and a little Museum of Old Toys. 🙂

  3. Mick Canning says

    Quite sad, many of those pictures. But the journey to hell involved a heaven of photography (sorry, that was really laboured!).

    1. Bob R says

      🙂 No apologies necessary.

  4. paula graham says

    Super shots of this side of Gdansk, there is another, more lighter side to all this. I saw Poland before and after, and in spite of lots of problems still …things seems better now. There is a lot to be said for ‘freedom’

Thoughts?

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